Chora Sfakion, Hora Sfakion, or Sfakia — all names are legitimate.

Our journey to the south of Crete and discovering its wonders spanned the entire year and a half we lived there. We were always drawn further south… but why? It’s because of the dramatic landscape that unfolds after a long, winding road, much like reaching the climax of a great book. For the secret beaches hidden beneath cliffs, accessible only by boat or a hike of varying lengths. The distinct cuisine transforms within a 20-minute drive, from the best mountain food you’ll ever taste to fresh seafood by the ports. And because the fresh glacier waters that cool the sea, giving it a cleansing touch. I could go on and on, but I believe Hora Sfakion is the finest representation of southern Crete.

In this post, we’ll guide you to the best places in and around Hora Sfakion to eat, sleep, and bathe in some of the finest waters you’ll experience in Europe. We also promise to show you the most affordable ways to enjoy your time here, as well as tips for making your trip more convenient. Whether you’re traveling alone, as a couple, or with family – we’ve got you covered. Enjoy!

Where to sleep in Hora Sfakion

If you’ve been traveling in Greece for a while, you’ve probably noticed that the standards are quite high. Most places are clean, simple, and feature friendly and welcoming hosts. You really can’t go wrong with whichever place you choose, as the price usually depends on location and level of luxury. The good news is that if you’re traveling on a tight budget, you’ll likely find the prices fair. And if you’re seeking a high-end vacation, you’re in luck—the prices increase proportionally with the quality of the accommodation.

Eleana Nature & Art

If you’re looking for style, Helena Nature & Art is the place for you. Like most Greek accommodations, it has everything you need, including a kitchen, along with additional facilities to indulge in. A significant perk is the free parking space, which can be extremely useful in a small town like Hora Sfakion during July and August. The terrace is lovely and offers a great view of the sea. The location is both quiet and convenient, and at night, you can hear the soothing sound of the sea.

Since we are budget travelers, we inevitably show you the cheapest place we found in Hora Sfakion. Avra Sfakia Apartments is an excellent choice for those seeking an affordable yet comfortable stay. This budget-friendly option provides all the essentials without compromising on quality.

Book your accommodation in advance.

If you plan to travel during the high season, from June to the end of August. However, if you’re visiting during any other month of the year, you can always book the first 2-3 nights. If you decide to extend your stay, talk with the owners. You can negotiate a better rate if you pay in cash.

What to do in Hora Sfakion

We love the south of Crete, particularly Hora Sfakion because it feels like the Wild West—a land that still seems undiscovered. Since most of Crete’s population is concentrated in the northern part of the island, where the terrain and topography are easier to navigate, the south feels almost like a pirate’s haven. The island is divided by gorges that run from north to south, making it possible to travel between the southern towns only by boat.

There are other towns in the south, like Plakias and Matala, that have become more developed, but we tend to avoid them as they’ve become too touristy—dormant in the winter and bustling in the summer, losing some of their authenticity. In contrast, Hora Sfakion manages to retain its pirate-like charm. In our eyes, Hora Sfakion, located in the mid-southern part of Crete, is an ideal base for exploring this wild, untamed region. We promise to share with you the best gorge in Crete (no, it’s not the Samaria Gorge!), the best beach, and the best restaurants.

Glyka Nera Beach

Visiting Glyka Nera beach is like discovering a hidden oasis where the alpine meets the desert. It’s a unique and magical environment, with glacier-like water sources in a beach setting. True to its name, which translates to “sweet/fresh water,” the beach has natural springs just beneath the surface, providing fresh drinking water you can easily tap into by digging a small hole in the sand. This abundance of fresh water, along with the serene beauty of the beach, makes it one of the best camping spots in Crete.

For those who love a sense of community, Glyka Nera attracts regular visitors who return year after year, forming a carefree community. Whether you camp with a tent or sleep under the stars, or arrive for a visit of several hours, the connection to nature here is palpable, and the calm atmosphere remains even during peak tourist season.

Even though you can’t travel to the beach by car, reaching Glyka Nera is easy, with options for both boat rides and hiking trails. You can catch a boat from Hora Sfakion, enjoy the short but scenic ride along the cliffs, or for the adventurous, a moderately challenging hike offers stunning coastline views.

You can literally hike the entire coastline, covering as much ground as your legs can handle and climbing up and down the cliffs. Another upscale option is to book a private boat and explore the coastline with your loved ones, free from any time constraints.

For those who want to combine both hiking and camping, splitting duties between taking the boat and hiking is a great solution to avoid carrying all your gear. Once you arrive, the beach offers more than just solitude and fresh water; it also features a great restaurant where you can enjoy a delicious meal. Whether you’re drawn by the serene landscape, the tight-knit community, or the adventure of getting there, Glyka Nera is an unforgettable experience that stays with you long after you leave.

It’s important to mention that, in our opinion, the best part of the beach is opposite the restaurant, where the sun umbrellas and beach chairs end and the camping tents and nudist beach area begin. If you’re traveling solo and looking for some social interaction, or if you’re a couple seeking a similar vibe, this is the area to explore.

Click here for more info about Glyka Nera.

Hiking Imbros Gorge

Imbros Gorge is a stunning natural attraction located about 20 kilometers (12 miles) from Hora Sfakion, making it a convenient destination for visitors staying in the area. The hike through the gorge is approximately 8 kilometers (5 miles) long and typically takes around 2 to 3 hours to complete, depending on your pace. The trail is relatively easier compared to the more famous Samaria Gorge, offering a less crowded but equally beautiful experience for free :). Along the way, you’ll be treated to narrow passages, towering rock walls, and lush vegetation, making it a rewarding trek for nature lovers.

We did the hike with our 3-year-old kid, who alternated between riding on our backs and hiking on his own. Since the trail isn’t a circular path, and we weren’t traveling with two cars to leave one at the end of the hike, we opted for a different approach—we parked our car at the start of the trail and hitchhiked back after finishing the hike. Another option is to join an organized tour with a guide from Rethymno or Chania. The prices for these tours are very reasonable, and it’s a convenient choice, especially for those who are short on time. Click here to book a tour.

We have to say, we enjoyed Imbros Gorge far more than Samaria Gorge. Its shorter length means the natural wonders are packed more densely, leaving you in awe for most of the trail, and there are far fewer people.

How to Get to Hora Sfakion

In this section, we’ll explain how to get to Hora Sfakion by public transportation or by car. Both options are excellent—while driving is typically more comfortable, it’s worth noting that public transportation in Crete is also very convenient. There’s also the option of hitchhiking, though not everyone will stop. After living there, we didn’t find any clear rules about it—some people are willing to pick you up, and others aren’t. Naturally, it becomes easier to hitch a ride once you’re outside the big cities and on the main road.

By Bus:

To reach Hora Sfakion by public transportation, you can take a bus from Chania, the main city in the region. Buses run regularly from the central bus station in Chania to Hora Sfakion, with the journey taking around 1.5 to 2 hours. The route is scenic, winding through the beautiful Cretan countryside and offering stunning views of the mountains and sea. Be sure to check the bus schedule in advance, as the frequency of buses may vary depending on the season. Once you arrive in Hora Sfakion, the village is small enough to explore on foot, and the main attractions are easily accessible.

By Car:

Getting to Hora Sfakion by car is a straightforward and enjoyable drive, especially if you enjoy scenic routes. From Chania, take the National Road (E75) heading east, and after about 30 kilometers, turn right onto the road towards Vrisses. Continue following the signs to Chora Sfakion, driving through the charming villages and mountainous terrain. The drive takes about 1.5 hours and offers stunning views of the White Mountains and the Libyan Sea as you approach the southern coast. The roads are well-paved, though they can be winding and narrow in some sections, so take your time and enjoy the journey. Once in Hora Sfakion, parking is usually available near the village center or along the harbor.

Where to Eat in Hora Sfakion

One of the great things about Crete—and Greece in general—is the consistency in quality. In most places, you’ll find high-quality traditional dishes made with a slight twist that adds a touch of character. While the standard is high, fresh, and simple, there’s always some individuality that stands out in the sea of familiar flavors.

When it comes to eating by the seaside, it’s common to find seafood dishes alongside traditional Greek favorites like stuffed peppers and zucchini balls with cheese. However, in relatively large, touristy towns like Hora Sfakion, you’re likely to encounter farmed fish, which we’re not big fans of. During the high season, Hora Sfakion can get quite crowded, and we often found ourselves opting for a large draft beer with some freshly cut French fries, typically served with herbs picked right from the island. Despite our efforts, we struggled to find that special touch of individuality in the heart of Hora Sfakion, so we’ve decided to recommend some standout spots just outside of town where you can experience a more authentic taste of Crete.

Don’t worry, if you’re craving freshly made food that’s not from farming, we’ve got some great recommendations for you as well.

Nektarios Tsitsiridis (tavern, café)

Νεκτάριος Τσιτσιρίδης (ταβέρνα, καφέ). See Location.

This spectacular spot is a 30-minute drive from Hora Sfakion, located on the main road heading to the northern part of the island. So, no matter what, you’re likely to pass by it at some point. Nestled in Ammoudari village, which is renowned for its traditional Cretan charm, this place is situated in a mountainous area near the entrance to the Askyfou Plateau. The village is surrounded by stunning natural beauty, with views of the White Mountains (Lefka Ori), and serves as a starting point for several hiking routes.

The owner, Nektarios (Νεκτάριος), is as welcoming as a Greek ‘mama’ and will probably fill your table with whatever he’s cooking that day. Don’t worry about trying to speak broken Greek—he probably won’t understand your proper English anyway. Just relax and enjoy the experience. And remember, don’t wear anything tight! There’s no menu, at least not one that we’ve seen, so be prepared to enjoy a variety of traditional mountain Cretan dishes. If you’re vegetarian, let him know; you’ll likely enjoy a classic Greek salad and some properly prepared okra, which, even if you’re not a fan of the dish, will be a pleasant surprise. For the carnivores among us, a mountain goat stew, made in various ways depending on the day of the week, is something you won’t want to miss. Most of the dishes feature proper mountain Cretan ingredients like goat cheese and fresh goat meat.

Marmaide Tavern Coffee

This unique restaurant delivers exceptional service and great food under unconventional conditions. Located on Glyca Nera, one of Crete’s best beaches. And what could be better than a remote island with fantastic food at reasonable prices? We’ll delve more into Glyka Nera Beach above in the article, as it’s a spot you definitely won’t want to miss!

The tavern is set on a small raft above the water, and despite its modest size, it takes its culinary offerings very seriously. To our surprise, it serves the best-stuffed peppers we had in Crete—one of those delightful surprises that the island offers. Additionally, this restaurant serves as the ‘boat stop’ for arriving at and departing from Glika Nera Beach back to Hora Sfakion.

When heading to Glyka Nera for the day, don’t pack sandwiches in your bag—save some space for lunch on the raft at Marmaide Tavern. See location.

Final Thoughts

We understand that there may not seem to be much here, but during our year and a half in Crete, we spent most of our time in the northern part of the island, simply because it’s more populated and we craved social life. However, whenever we had the chance or when the weather permitted, we chose to do everything we’ve mentioned in this post. Just as we were about to move on to another country, we finally connected with the community at Glyka Nera. We regretted not meeting them sooner, because if we had, we might never have left the island.